VdPs, understated elegance, and baron philippe
Charmed I was by a short piece on Wall Street’s On Wine column, which is my favorite online wine read, which addressed the precarious task of
selecting wines to bring to holiday parties; this engagement I met with two evenings prior. It is an amusing idea, actually; the ultimate wine choices for gatherings depend on a variety of conditions.
One, it may be a case where one knows there already will be ample wine present on the occasion—but those of a seasoned wine celebrant or collector. Here is where one wants to avoid embarrassment if it’s known that the host is fond of high dollar or cult wines. And here is where it is wonderful to know wines of amazing quality and reliability but of manageable price; perhaps an unclassified wine from a revered producer or region, or my favorite for extra fun, a rather esoteric and enigmatic wine about which one can knowledgeably extoll the virtues. [A touch of friendly one-upmanship, perhaps].
Two, the case may be that the gathering includes those who do really enjoy wine, but with limited understanding. Middle of the road, this is most common it seems. Here is where it is usually best to choose wines that one already knows will fall into the style category the host and guests already drink; for instance, ‘usually they drink inexpensive domestic cabernets, I will bring a polished midrange Chilean cab’. Gatherings like this will often have some great enjoyable finds at the table.
Three, the case simplest to navigate is one where the host and party do not drink wine at all; maybe they have ‘wines’ for their ‘wine drinking guests’—usually not encouraging. Here is where it is appropriate, albeit admittedly a bit selfish, to choose whatever one would like for himself. [Also selfishly, one hopes that other guests will instead feel most comfortable sticking to whatever ‘wines’ the host provides]
I was in this situation, and my group for the party did in fact bring wine as a gift, but of course my concern was ‘Will there be anything there for me to drink’. My deduction for this case was, correctly, no. And so a white and a red; it happened that I trusted my friend with only my suggestions for wines to pick up. I find New World sauvignon blancs to be universally appropriate for nearly any occasion, in part due to my own love for them—a lovely New Zealand sauvie by The Crossings. Second, my companion for the length of the evening, Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s Pays d’Oc merlot bottling. At the very least I knew I could enjoy good wine at the party if nothing else.
I am self professed to not be a Bordelaise nut. I don’t suspect I will ever populate a cellar with Premier Cru or even Deuxieme Cru wines; with most aspects of my life, I try to avoid pomp and circumstance and the superficial polish of any identity for the sake of being identified. However, though, while I’ll sidestep exorbitant pricetags [of cult Napa cabs or big Bordeaux] I will always appreciate the transfer of wisdom and expertise to another, more approachable creation. The Pays d’Oc line by the Mouton Rothschild empire is one such creation.
The legacy surrounding the
Rothschild family is, actually, incredibly prismatic and fascinating. The family’s financial capital and muscle was product of these Frankfurt expatriates’ astronomical success as bankers in the 19
th century; eventually, many of Western Europe’s most important structures and innovations were capitalized through the Rothschild banking. (There were five brothers captaining, each dubbed ‘Baron’) The wealth began the wine, beginning in 1853 and then in 1868, with the purchases of Bordeaux’s Chateau Mouton and Chateau Lafite, respectively. By 1973 both wine entities were recognized as Premiere Crus (Lafite was part of the 1
st growths in the classic 1855 classification). The two Chateaux, in typical fashion of both the Bordelaise and of family, have always maintained a benign rivalry.
Chateau Mouton, directed by Baron Philippe de Rothschild, has through the 20
th century to today exemplified and proselytized both innovation in winemaking and in celebration of art. (Reminiscent of the legacy of Robert Mondavi? No mystery why the two partnered to create Opus One in the late 1970s) Mouton’s Pauillac, Bordeaux flagship wines have been adorned with modern artwork since 1946, a real statement in prominence for artists. Then there are the well known Mouton Cadet wines--‘Cadet’ as French ‘youngest’ of the Rothschild brothers—Chateau Cadet bought by Baron Philippe, which have since 1947 shown as manifestations of expression, quality, and availability; with simple Bordeaux AOC status, Cadet leads the sales of this classification.
The Pays d’Oc wines were created in 1995. With this, Baron Philippe has harnessed the provisions of the beautiful, idyllic Languedoc-Rousillon in Southern France. I adore wines from all over Southern France; the southernmost parts of the Southern Rhone commingle with the Languedoc. These VdPs are bottled as varietals, of course a New World adaptation, and are adorned with utterly beautiful, modern labels. The art is borrowed from the Premier Cru Mouton wine of 1962.
So indeed at this party I had the pleasure of having Baron Philippe’s VdP merlot as my plus one. Perfect for wine-to-party scenario number three. Clearly of pristine quality borrowed from the proliferation and prominence of merlot as the second most important grape of Bordeaux, this wine was of velvet texture, made to be enjoyed in youth. Soft, fine, smooth tannins and balance. It featured fruit notes characteristic of merlot-black cherry, raspberry, plum; but softened and accented with the spice presence of Southern France aspect. A wonderful wine to be an accomplice in conversation and alone enjoyment (absent food), even, without demanding all the air space. Elegantly understated. As red and sweetly spiced as Christmas itself.
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